chatraka

Schizophyllum commune, commonly known as Splitgill mushroom, is a highly complex organism among the larger kingdom of fungi. Its gills are fragile, fan-like structures that split and fold in interesting ways; a prime example of nature’s design beauty for a purpose . This unique organism has always inspired me and is now in my very latest fashion collection, in which the organic textures and earthy colors have been revived into modern, elegant and durable pieces.

The Splitgill mushroom is the inspiration for my collection; its natural form really moved me and I wanted to mimic its beautiful texture and structure. The layered, split gills also informed the shapes of my garments – the sleeves, flares, and overall drape of each silhouette. Because of how dainty and pearl-like the spores are, I began to introduce pearls as embellishment – new and interesting details to the design.

With these patterns I began working towards structures that were organic and instill a feeling of intimacy with nature and enable the person wearing it, to feel part of the beauty of nature. The color palette references the earth tones and subtle color contrast inherent in the mushroom as a way to elevate its natural beauty. The folds, pleats, and details, in each of these pieces whisper the simple elegance of the Splitgill, transforming something as modest as a forest mushroom into pieces of wearable art.

I selected champe silk for this collection, as opposed to actual silk, due to the natural, ridged texture of the fabric that resembles the surface of the Splitgill mushroom. It is structured enough in that I can achieve crisp pleats, flares, and dramatic sculptural sleeves, yet flows enough to allow the garment to move beautifully.

The embellishments borrow from the pearl-like spores of the mushroom. In select areas of the piece I used fine pearl work to accentuate the forms, providing a gentle organic shimmer that picks up the light without being showy. The textured fabrics and soft pearl details on each piece gives the collection depth and character, reminding the viewer of the nature that inspired it.

Look – 1

One-Shoulder Pearl Embellished Co-Ord Set: Morphological inspiration from the layered, split gills of the mushroom are reinterpreted as sculptural draped folds in champe silk. The pearl accents are the mushroom’s pearl spores, providing the piece with a subtle, organic shimmer . The warm orange and earthy brown are reminiscent of the color gradients one might observe in a mushroom cap or gills.

Look – 2

Peplum Top with Slim Pants: The flared peplum is reminiscent of the radial gills of a mushroom, while the layered edges of the sleeves hint at the wavy ridges of the structure. The pearl detailing follows the seams in seams as spores along organic lines, reinforcing the organic relationship. These earthy colors are taken from the Split Gill itself, which has a soft yet contrasting color palette.

Look – 3

Asymmetric Hem Dress with Ruffle Sleeves: The Ruffle sleeves were designed to mimic the wavy, soft edges of the mushroom’s form. The asymmetrical hem is indicative of the way mushrooms grow in nature, unevenly and layered. The deep brown panel on the orange base mimics the shadowed creases and light outer edges of the Split Gill.

LOOK – 4

Menswear Mandarin Collar Shirt with Chest Pleats: The clean cream shirt’s eye catching pleated panel on the chest of rich amber colored campe silk references the layers of the mushroom’s gills. Worn with an ochre cropped trouser and white sneakers, the overall look is simple, but unforgettable.

Look – 5

Menswear Ruffle Shoulder Shirt: Departing from conventional men’s shirts, this crisp cream number features asymmetric ruffles on the shoulders. The pants’ burnished orange hue injects some life while the ruffles add a hint of drama, defying sober masculine suiting.

In this collection, styling is more than an add-on There is very minimal styling. Women’s appearances are complemented by pearl chokers or subtle earrings, men’s attire relies on crisp shoes and the absence of ornamentation. The hair and makeup choices are earthy as well: warm bronze eyes, nude lips, and the hair is either sleek or casually flowing, so as not to distract from the garments .